Animo!

Destination worthy Mexican breakfast in Midtown East

Interior of Animo!

Rating: 8.6/10

What Could Go Right?

I’d walked by Animo!, a new all-day Mexican cafe, countless times. In the months leading up to it’s opening I’d pass by and notice construction outside of the corner space with the Animo! letters prominently displayed on the building. Though I don’t like to admit it, on more than one occasion I thought to myself, “There is no way this place will survive.” My pre-judgment was not based on the restaurant or concept itself. I love Mexican breakfast food! It was more so the Midtown East location. Could an authentic Mexican breakfast spots thrive in an area where the mainstays are generic places like The Smith? Thankfully, they can!

My reason for visiting was somewhat random. Although I’d mentally bookmarked Animo! as a place to try, there was nothing forcing my hand. That all changed when a colleague brought a box of conchas (Mexican bread with crackly sweet topping) to our corporate work office. After taking a bite and thoroughly enjoying it, I noticed the exclamation point on the packaging along with the familiar A-N-I-M-O letters I’d walked by so many times. I made another mental note to turn the previous mental bookmark into a mandate.

The Food:

Animo! was opened by Roberto Levinson, a man who grey up in Monterrey, Mexico and used to work in healthcare. The space is open and airy, and the seafoam green interior makes you feel like you’ve been transported to a tropical destination where you should sip your coffee slowly and lose track of time. The place has a few booths along with these wavy countertops where patrons can sit and eat diner style. My recent trip to Animo! was shared with a few close friends. In my selfishness to try everything, I suggested we order family style (family-style is the best style). Scanning the menu we planned our attack, and decided on the following:

  • A corn cake pastry: A corn bread with the texture of sponge cake

  • A cheese tart pastry: Almost like a small cheesecake though not too sweet

  • Chilaquiles Rojas with al pastor: Fried corn tortillas coated with red salsa and topped with marinated pork

  • Torta de huevo con chorizo: House made bread with eggs, Mexican sausage, Oaxaca cheese, refried beans, and avocado

  • Enchiladas verdes with chicken: Corn tortillas filled with chicken and covered in green tomatillo sauce

  • Hot cakes with glorias: Pancakes with Mexican caramels called glorias

A corn cake pastry

We started with the corn cake and cheese tart pastries. The first surprise was the moist texture of the corn cake, which reminded me more of a Chinese sponge cake than cornbread. The cheese tart was creamy without being too sweet, giving way to a perfectly crumbly shell. I knew things were getting serious then and there, and I was in store for excellence. Luckily our purgatory was short-lived and the procession of other dishes hit the table.

Aside from the pastries, which I would alone return for, the chilaquiles rojos and the hot cakes were the standout dishes for me. Don’t get me wrong. At a baseline, everything was great.

The endless ingredients in the egg and chorizo torta melded into it’s own distinct smoky flavor while the green enchilada sauce was bright. However, it’s been been a few days and I can’t stop thinking about the chilaquiles and pancakes. The chilaquiles, which are tortilla chips that have been quickly stir fried and coated in red or green sauce, still maintained some crisp while simultaneously soaking up the acidic, spicy, and tomato-laced red sauce. A perfect way to cut through the saltiness of the deeply flavored marinated pork. Now about those pancakes. I almost never order pancakes.

Chilaquiles Rojos with Al Pastor

Hot cakes with glorias

Part of me doesn’t enjoy pure carbs for breakfast. It seems I need to adjust my thinking after tasting these. At first glance, the ‘hot cakes’ looked like ordinary pancakes with several slices of nicely caramelized bananas on top. When I took the first bite the symphony started. I immediately remarked at the fluffy texture and almost savory, neutral taste. Then my mouth hit a pocket of something creamy and warm, as the melted caramel ‘gloria’ candies elicited a caramel sauce like sweetness reminding me of Haagen Daz dulce de leche ice cream from childhood. Meal completed we stepped out into the sun to walk off some of the damage.

Takeaway:

Like I stated at the top, I was so fortunately wrong about the vitality of this Mexican breakfast spot in Midtown East. The vibes are immaculate, the staff is very kind, and the food is such a surprise for an area not known for culinary chops. Whatever prompted Mr. Levinson to walk away from healthcare and into the restaurant industry is a benefit to us all. I can’t wait to go back and try more things.

Website: https://animonyc.com/ | Address: 1004 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10022