Carnitas Ramirez: A Whole Hog Heaven

March 31, 2025

The exterior of Carnitas Ramirez in Alphabet City

Rating: 9.1/10

“If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again.”

The above saying is often associated with grand milestones, such as securing the dream job you’ve always wanted, acing an elusive certification, or hitting a personal record at the gym. For me, it means tacos, and specifically, Carnitas Ramirez. Let me explain.

Several months ago I set my sights on eating at Carnitas Ramirez. The carnitas spot, which opened in June of 2024, is the much anticipated sequel to Taqueria Ramirez, a Greenpoint gem owned by Tonia Apolinar and Giovanni Cervantes. While Taqueria Ramirez specializes in suadero (beef) and al pastor (marinated pork), Carnitas Ramirez is an ode to the pig only. A whole hog affair where parts are fried in lard, slow-cooked in copper cauldrons, then laid out in front of choosing customers like rugs at a Turkish bazaar. Although I never patronized the Greenpoint location, the heaps of praise doled out by each food publication deluded me into an uncommon curiosity for the kinds of places I usually avoid, TRENDY ones. Now was my chance to try the follow-up.

My first attempt at Carnitas Ramirez happened during a cold winter day. Anticipating an hour-long trudge, I set off at 11:00AM to make the 12:00PM opening. Block after block passed by as I inched closer to the destination. When I rounded the corner on 3rd Street and Avenue B, I didn’t see a person in sight.

“No line, it must be my lucky day.”

My cockiness was misguided, for on the door read a sign ‘We are closed for vacation and will reopen on xx/xx/xxxx,’ nearly two weeks away. The failure here was mine, and mine alone, that being my inability to check Google. I did a U-turn and headed home like a dog with its tail between its legs.

The second attempt at Carnitas Ramirez was truly half-hearted. A month after my first ill-fated attempt, I was hankering for an afternoon snack. What better way to encourage wellness than by walking an hour to offset it with fatty pork, amirite? However, after about 45 minutes I felt a change of heart.

“Is it worth going to Carnitas Ramirez for a snack? I better just get my steps in and be healthy for the day.”

Third time is the charm:

I’m a firm believer good things come in threes. Triangles are the strongest shape (don’t quote me on that). I come from a family of three siblings. Charlie has three angels. You get the gist. The same must apply for tacos. I set off on my third jaunt aided by uncommonly warm weather and the wherewithal to check Google beforehand.

This time, a queue greeted me when I reached Carnitas Ramirez. An employee stood at the door, intermittently ushering people to order inside; a bonafide ‘carnitas bouncer’. A small crowd of people milled about and every few minutes I’d hear an employee yell a name, letting the customer know their tacos were ready. After several minutes I was given the green light and entered.

When I stepped foot inside I was welcomed with a treasure trove of meats, lined up and glistening due to specs of grease shining like little diamonds. I counted about 15 options with an array of expected parts like ribs (costilla) and shank (chamorro), as well as obscure options like brain (sesadilla) and even uterus (nana). I’d originally anticipated ordering two tacos, but instantaneously considered ordering a third (or ten). Shank, jowl, ribs…decisions decisions! As I reached the counter to place my order I found my backbone and opted for two, the mix of everything (surtida) and jowl (papada).

Pig parts ready for choppin’

Surtida and papada tacos

“NAME! NAME!” I heard my name yelled several minutes later and sprang up from my counter seat to grab the prized possessions. I guided the plate to the self-service salsa bar and loaded up on a mix of pickled onions, red salsa, and a tomatillo salsa mixed with avocado.

The first thing I noticed when I picked up my jowl taco was the juices that dripped onto the plate like a leaky faucet. Moist was an understatement. I cocked my head sideways and welcomed the porcine vessel into my mouth. The corn tortilla emanated a distinct nuttiness, after which my mouth was inundated with salty unctuous fat, the jowl grease coating the inside of my mouth.

“Why didn’t I order more tacos?” I thought to myself.

The meat, juicy as can be, was cut by the perfect acidity of pickled red onion, while the tomatillo-avocado salsa hit me with a one-two punch of heat and creaminess. Down the hatch in two bites. The surtida, not to be left behind, also fired on all cylinders. Salty, fatty, spicy, creamy, acidic. I slowly ate the remaining pickled jalapeno wishing against all odds it was another taco instead of an accoutrement. And just like that it was over.

If I had to choose, the jowl would be my taco of choice, though both were undoubtedly outstanding. I like being able to taste each part of the pig separately, and I immediately knew it would not be a want, but a duty to return and try other parts. I am already planning my subsequent visit for the fried pork belly (carnudo), ribs (costilla), and others. Rest assured, I’m ordering at least three tacos next time.

Website: https://www.carnitasramirez.com/ | Address: 210 E 3rd St, New York, NY 10009